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double stitch, how to tat, original patterns, picots, rings, shuttle tatting, terminology, tutorial
Welcome to the best part of tatting: making actual projects! By the end of this tutorial you will have your very own daisy, butterfly, and a simple edging. This is going to be a much longer post than normal, but I promise it’ll be worth it. So get your shuttle and thread, make a cup of tea, and get comfortable.
Before we begin tatting an intentional project, we’ll need to go over some basics of reading tatting patterns. This lesson will focus on ring-only patterns. We’ll add a second thread (to make chains) in the next lesson, and then include chains in our pattern repertoire.
DIFFERENT TYPES OF PATTERNS
Just like ice cream, tatting patterns come in different flavors, and just as vanilla ice cream tastes different from different brands, tatting patterns will vary slightly between each author or publisher. However, once you understand their general look and feel, you can navigate your way between all those minor variations pretty easily, and I’ll give you come tips later for doing just that.
There are three basic types of patterns: written, abbreviated, and diagrammatic. Let’s go over each.
WRITTEN PATTERNS
As the name suggests, written patterns have all the instructions, every last bit, written out in full. It will probably use abbreviations (not to be confused with abbreviated patterns), but they’ll all be there. A written pattern for a simple ring might look like this:
R 3ds, p, 3ds, p, 3 ds, p, 3ds, cl r. Cut and tie.
Using what you know about tatting so far, try to guess what it all means before going on.
Ready? Okay, let’s go over each element together. We know we’re making a ring because the pattern starts with R. This tells us that we’ll use only one shuttle and will wrap the working thread around our hand to make the stitches. Now that we know we’re making a ring, we need to know how many double stitches to make. Fortunately that comes next. 3ds stands for three double stitches.
Notice that the pattern includes lots of “#ds” bits, separated by a p. What tatting element comes between double stitches? Picots. So we’ll make a picot between each set of 3ds. The last part just says what to do when you finish making any ring; you cl r, close the ring (sometimes just cl). If the element you are making is at the end of a motif or a section of a pattern, then you’ll often see the instruction to Cut and tie. That is, cut the thread off from the shuttle and tie a knot or hide the ends as appropriate. Sometimes the author assumes you know to do this and will leave it off.
A common variation on written patterns aims to simplify repetitive chunks of the pattern. Instead of “R 3ds, p, 3ds, p, 3ds, p, 3ds, cl r,” you might see
R (3ds, p) 3 times, 3ds, cl r. Or R *3ds, p * rep from * 2 times, 3 ds, cl r. Or R 3ds sep by 3 p, 3ds, cl r.All of these clump the “3ds, p” part into three chunks that you will repeat. Then after you have done three sets of three double stitches separated (sep) by a picot—notice that the set ends with a picot—you’ll need to do three more double stitches to finish the ring.
What are the most common abbreviations? While you will see some minor variations in the abbreviations used in these types of patterns, there will be a lot of consistency, too. Here are the most common that you’ll encounter with ring-only patterns:
r(s) = ring(s) ch(s) = chain(s) p(s) = picot(s) sp or sm p = small picot lp or lg p = large (or long) picot ds = double stitch j = join sep or sep by = separated by beg = beginning prev = previous * = repeat instructions after an asterisk the number of times specified ( ) = repeat instructions between parentheses the number of times specifiedIf you encounter a pattern and cannot tell what the abbreviations mean, check to see if there is a legend. Most authors include a key to their abbreviations, usually near the beginning of the instructions.
ABBREVIATED PATTERNS
Abbreviated patterns include basically the same information as written patterns but are more consise. Here’s the same pattern as above, in abbreviated format:
R 3 – 3 – 3 – 3.
Much shorter, right? Abbreviated patterns are like the CliffsNotes version of patterns, and here’s the CliffsNotes version of their explanation. All numbers are numbers of double stitches, and dashes are picots. Substitute those in your mind, and you get back to the same written pattern we just dissected above. Make sense?
Notice that the instructions do not specify to close the ring, cut the thread and tie or hide the ends. Sometimes abbreviated patterns will include this, but often the author assumes that if you are making a ring, you will know to close it. Usually there will simply be a period to show that the ring’s instructions are complete.
Two more things. If you see more than one dash indicated for a picot, that is the equivalent of a lp, or large picot. The more dashes, the larger the picot. Also, a + indicates a join—instead of making a picot, join to an existing picot.
DIAGRAMMATIC PATTERNS
Diagrammatic patterns are a radical departure from the written format. These are great for visual learners, and many modern patterns are presented this way.
Based upon what we’ve already learned about one simple ring pattern, what can you guess about this pattern?
We know we’re making a ring, and this picture is, conveniently enough, in the shape of a ring. Plus, our pattern above includes four sets of three double stitches separated by a picot, and in this pattern the ring is divided by a little line into four segments with a number 3 in each.
In all diagrammatic patterns, rings are show by little circles, with numbers representing the number of stitches and little lines that stick out representing picots. Why didn’t I just say so instead of going through that tedious process of figuring it out? I’m not trying to treat you like a third grader. Even though this one is a very easy pattern, you will find plenty of diagrammatic patterns where you have to study the picture in this manner to figure it out.
The edging pattern we will tat later on in this lesson will provide more opportunities for looking at the features of diagrammatic patterns.
THREE SIMPLE TATTING PATTERNS
Are you ready to tat a daisy? Try this pattern:
R (1ds, p) 12 times, 1ds, cl r. Leave about 1″ thread. R 20ds, cl r. R 25ds, cl r, cut thread close to the r.
Now you have a cute little daisy with a stem and two leaves.
Don’t worry if your picots aren’t even, or if they are twisted, as you will get better at this with practice. I’ll have a lesson on evening out picots, too.
Ready to try something a bit harder? How about a butterfly? Try this:
To do this pattern you will need to join to a picot. Each join will be to the last picot of the previous ring.

Tie ends together closely, leave about 2″ tail and cut. Knot close to ends for antennae.
Here is one more pattern to wrap up this lesson; a simple hen and chicks style edging. Before getting on with it, there is one more technique you need to know about called reverse work, or turn. I’ll go over this more in another post, but for now all you need to know is that reverse work basically means to turn the project over. So after you finish each ring in this edging, you will turn your work over and continue tatting from the new “top.”
That sounds pretty simple, and it is, but here’s the tricky part. Written and abbreviated patterns will tell you when to reverse work, but diagrammatic patterns usually do not (unless there is a spot where it would not be expected). These diagrammed patterns expect you to know when to reverse, or turn, your work over, and with just a little experience it will not be that hard to figure out.
On to the pattern. The above tiny motifs are my own patterns (though both are fairly standard doodles) but this hen and chicks edging comes from a book published in 1916, “Tatting Designs with Instructions Book No Five” by Adeline Cordet. Price 10 Cents. Nice price. Here are both Cordet’s original pattern and my diagrammed version.
*R. 5 d. s., p, * 3 times, 5 d. s., close; leave 1-4th-in. thread, tn., make a small r. of 5 d. s., p., 5 d. s. close, tn.; leave 1-4th in. thread as before; make a 2nd r. like 1st and j. to last p. of 1st r., tn.; leave sp. as before and make a large r. of 4 d. s., j. to p. of small r., *2 d. s., p., * 8 times, 4 d. s., close. Rep.
Does the pattern look like the picture? Good, that’s the point. The diagram should show you a picture of what you are tatting, only with instructions. Is this better:
Notice a few things about this pattern:
You already know that the little lines sticking out from rings are picots, the same as in the single ring pattern above, but this pattern also shows several of those lines connecting two rings together. When the picot lines connect, that indicates a join between two rings. Make a picot on the first ring you make, then when you get to the second ring make the join.
Each ring includes a letter inside to indicate the sequence in which you will make them. Patterns often use this handy tool, but not always, so before beginning a pattern it is a good idea to trace through it and make sure you are clear on the order of steps.
Also, not every ring includes the numbers of double stitches. If an element is repeated, it will often include instructions only once and you will need to extrapolate like elements.
Look at the lines connecting the rings. These are extra thread that gives space between the rings—if these lines had numbers they would be chains, with the numbers indicating double stitches. We’ll look at patterns with chains in another tutorial. Beware: the length of the connecting lines is not an indication of the amount of thread you should leave. In general you will leave the minimum amount that is appropriate to make the pattern.
Give this pattern a try, and let me know in the comments or by email if you have any difficulties. Remember, as it is an edging, you can make it as long or as short as you wish. If you like what you make you can sew it to something. Decorate. Get frilly. Have fun tatting!
CONCLUSION
We’ve covered a lot in this tutorial, and hopefully you now have a daisy, a butterfly, an edging and the confidence to try some more on your own. What questions do you still have? What isn’t clear? Let me know in the comments or by email and I’ll try to answer every question. Stay tuned for the next lesson when we add a second thread, and a second shuttle to your tatting skill set.
This post continues with Reading Patterns and Making Projects, Part Two.
This post is part of a series of Absolute Beginner Tatting Lessons. Go back to the previous lesson, How to Join to a Picot, or jump ahead to the next lesson, How to Combine Rings and Chains with CTM.
Fantastic. I wish I’d had these instructions when I was trying to learn to tat. You give very good instructions!
Cindy, thanks! I try to remember the difficulties I had when learning, and pay attention to the questions my local students have, and answer all those. Though sometimes I’m not sure if I’m trying to be too clear and just confusing the situation.
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Excellent tutorial – clear and concise with enough information to explain why things are the way they are. I have found many books even beginner ones just assume that they are an accompanyment to someone being taught rather than the complete learning matter on the subject so assume you know silly things like close the ring, cut and tie etc….
I’ve linked to this post on my blog today. http://janeeborall.blogspot.com/
So pleased that you are doing this concise and clear tutorial for newbies.
Jane, thank you so much for your support, it means so much to me.
Excellent, thorough tutorials! Very good to see the explanation of different tatting pattern styles, and like others have mentioned, I wish this kind of guidance had been available when I was starting out with tatting years ago. I’ve added your site to the Tatting Websites list on my blog.
Yarnplayer, wow, thank you for your kind comments on my little blog. I’ve been following your blog–and drooling over your threads–for years. You make such lovely tatted treasures.
Hi,
I just wanted to let you know how much I appreciate the “Absolute Beginner Series”. You have done an incredible job of putting together the tutorials.
I’ve tried to learn how to tat in the past. I have taken classes for both shuttle and needle tatting and tried the “how-to” books, but nothing clicked until I started working through your lessons.
I think that the timing of your lessons has also been good, even though I’m impatient to get on to the next lesson, it has forced me to practice each lesson again and again while waiting for the next one.
I am very pleased to have finished each of the projects in this post, and although I know that they will get better with more practice, I am very happy that they have turned out so well.
Thank you for putting together and publishing this series.
Best regards,
Heather
Heather, I’m so glad it is finally clicking for you and you were able to do all three patterns! That’s wonderful! Keep practicing and your quality will get better, I promise.
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Please tell me what does the slash sign ( / )in tatting mean.
Thank you.
I have read Jane Eborall’s Tatting instructions for ‘Norman the Rooster”. Please explain to me the following:
SR 2: 3 – 3 / 6 Cl
I do not understand the slash sign ‘/’.
Thank you.
Eng Lee Gek,
The / is a notation for split rings. The number before the slash is the number of double stitches and picots with the first shuttle, and the numbers after the slash are made with the second shuttle. So, in SR (split ring) 3 ds, p, 3ds with the first shuttle, then 6 ds with the second shuttle, and close ring.
I’m not sure what “2:” means here. Maybe it is instructions for the second split ring? I would need to see it in context to take a better guess.
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These are great! BUt could you tell me on the edging tutorial what “tn” stands for? Like here :R. 5. d. s., p, * 3 times, 5 d. s., close; leave 1-4th-in. thread, make a small r. of 5 d. s., close, TN
Sam, tn is the abbreviation for “turn.” For more info please check out my tutorial on reverse and turn work, or the CTM tutorial for a video of it in action.
Thanks!
Also, sorry, I have one more.
Do you cound the join in the next double stitches? Like how when you do the picots you cound the closing stitch in the doubles? I’m sorry, I know that’s really confusing, but I don’t have a better way to put it.
Sam, when you pull the thread through to join you DO NOT count that in the stitch count. Right after the join you will always make at least one double stitch to secure it, and that DOES count in your stitch count.
I heard somewhere that some tatters secure ends with glue.what are your thoughts on this? Good or bad idea an what type of glue?
Been wanting t learn tatting for a while but never found a site that was clear on how to flip and stuff till I found your one, thank you for the wonderful clear instructions they’ve been a great help and will recommend for my friends that’s have also been wanting to learn.
Good luck, and do let me know how it goes.
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Hello!! 🙂
I am brand new to tatting, having just bought my first book “Learn Needle Tatting Step-by-Step” by Barbara Foster. I am having a great time trying to learn. I’ve been an avid crocheter for about 38 years and enjoy both yarn and thread projects. I always wanted to learn tatting, but just never thought I could learn with the shuttle. I am finding it’s a little easier than I thought it would be by learning with the needle. Hopefully, after I get pretty good with the needle, I’ll be able to try the shuttle. This tutorial is great…very concise and easy to understand. I am looking forward to reading thru the rest of this tutorial series and checking out all the areas here. Thanks so much for your instruction. Are there tatting groups or online communities for tatters out there? I’d like to read and study with others who are gracious enough to give tips and tutorials.
Thanks again….Kathy 🙂
Hi,
Thanks for posting all of these tutorials! I have been trying to learn tatting for about a month now and really, the books and other online tutorials I’ve read haven’t been very clear on whats what and why.
I do have a question, I hate having to ask for help/explanations, but this (be-stitched.com/pattern0802magnolia.asp) pattern is just confusing… I get how to make the base, and the petals, but what I don’t get is the order in which the petals get made… I reach the second petal and then I have no idea where to connect the third one to or which way it goes.
I feel like a pest asking this question especially since it’s probably so easy to figure out… This pattern is pretty much the reason I wanted to learn tatting (it’s that pretty!) any help or advice you could give would be appreciated, Thank you again!
Adia, welcome to the world of tatting! The Magnolia pattern is very pretty.
The petals all get made in clockwise order. The petals are all attached to the base in two places, but are not attached to each other. Between each petal there is a small linking chain that lets you continue from one petal to the next without having to cut off your thread. At the end of each linking chain you will begin the next petal, do the first ring and then the next chain links it to the base.
I hope this helps, and if not please email me with your specific question and I will try and help you out.
Oh, boy! I am so happy that your website was mentioned in the yahoo group….it reminded me that I want to do some tatting. Lots of tatting. I am enjoying going through your tutorials. They are very, very clear. Thank you!
Hi Heather. As everyone else has pointed out above, your instructions are very clear. I am trying to make the hen and check edging by needle tatting. It’s not quite right, but I think it might be b/c of the needle. Is this pattern able to be completed with a needle? Is there some way I need to alter the pattern? Thanks for your time!
The pattern should be fined for needle as is, though when you are joining the rings it might be a little tricky the first few times as your stitches will be on a street pole and you will have another ring dangling from it. It is just something to get used to. Good luck.
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Hi! I am new to tatting, (less than a month) but have been crocheting and knitting for years, so it was only a matter of time until I became a “tatter”. I learned a lot from your beginner tatting series, so thank you so much for those! I do have a question regarding joins. . . I know you count a picot as a stitch when following patterns, but do you count a picot join as a stitch as well? Or any join for that matter? Thanks in advance!! 🙂
Hi, welcome to tatting! Picots do not count as a stitch when you’re making a joint, and there is something of a debate among us tatters as to whether they count as a stitch at all. Some people count them as a stitch and some do not. Most of the time it doesn’t make much difference, frankly, but when you get to very intricate patterns that really depend on every stitch, take a look at the pattern designer’s website or book and see if you can tell whether they count picots as a stitch or not. I hope this helps.
thanks so much! I was looking for info on if picots counted as a stitch and found it here. Lots of great info. Good Job!!
Hi Heather, I am also new to tatting. Your tutorials were my first clue that I might be able to do this. With your help and a few others, I am enjoying this very much. One of my sources is a book by Janette Baker, “LEARN TO TAT” and I am slowly working my way through it. Currently I am trying to make a doily called Daffodil. I have finished the first round and can’t decide if I should cut the thread, tying it off, or somehow continue the second round from where I am. Is this one of those rules that is implied and understood if you are among the “initiated”?
Welcome to tatting! When ending one row and starting another, you can either tie off and start a new row or work your way out of one row and into the next.
Until you gain more skill and confidence, probably tying off would be the easiest option. But very soon you will be able to find ways to “climb out” of one row and into the next.
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Hello!
I would like to just say that your tutorials are the bomb! I have been trying and trying to pick up tatting for the last three years and feel like an island. I learned from a friend who lives three hours away and no one in my family tats. In desperation I have resorted to clipping the ends of my threads close to the knot since I have broken several needles with pliers trying to hide the ends. Seeing your videos makes me sigh because it still looks just as hard, I just wasn’t using the right tools. I will have to read your post on how tight to make the stitches–maybe that is my problem.
Anyhow, my biggest frustration right now is that I cannot seem to figure out how to use my new-found “modern” skills (which include the single-shuttle split ring, self-closing mock ring, and split chain) to reinvent old patterns. In searching the web I have not been able to find a satisfactory blog or website that explains how to do this. I want to learn how to climb out of the first row! I want to make big pieces like table runners and placemats, consisting of multiple motifs…I dream of climbing not only from one row to the next but from one motif to the next! Since I can’t figure out how, I am forced to do one row, stop, then do the next, stop, then start the next motif…The endless cut and tie is driving me nuts! Plus I fear my projects will fall apart since I’ve given up hiding the ends. PLEASE HELP!!
Hi, I do plan on making video tutorials for these topics eventually, but unfortunately don’t have the time now. Sorry. There are some good videos on YouTube you could try.
I bought a Learn How To Tat book with a DVD. It was helpful, but I learned SO much more from your wonderful videos. I can’t thank you enough. However, as good as your tutorials are, I still get a little lost when I’m trying to work the patterns. Would you consider doing more videos showing how to do the beginning projects? Actually ANY videos you do on anything concerning tatting would be wonderful – I’m a very visual learner. Thank you for all the time you’ve put in helping us Newbies!
Barb
Barb, I will be making more videos, but probably not until the summer. I teach high school and during the school year I am swamped. I’m glad the videos helped you, keep up the tatting.
I’m a retired teacher myself, so I TOTALLY understand about not doing more videos during the school year. Not only am I new to tatting, but I’m also new to doing comments. It was the Part 2 of pattern reading that was difficult for me. Thank you again for your wonderful tutorials.
Barb
Thank you so much for all the lessons and tips. I tried tatting about 30 years ago and never quite got the hang of it. I have made three completed projects using your instructions. Some errors but over all they look good. I have never seen such beautiful shuttles that you use. Do you collect them? Where can I get wooden ones like yours.
Please keep the lessons coming.
Newbie Susan
HI
Thank you for the wonderful web site
l have been trying to learn tatting for over 32 years and this year it click
your site has been a god send for me the video’s are great, l am a show me person
l have done the butterfly and hen and chicken patterns and l’m having a ball with it
keep up the great job
can the hen and chicken pattern be done on a hanky, or do you have to sew it on after you have made it?
thank you heeps again Heather Greig
You can sew it on after or attach it as you do it, simply by attaching each inward facing picot directly to the hanky as you make them.
However, I suggest doing it afterwards, so then you can see if you have enough made or need to bunch it a bit or stretch it out slightly to fit the side.
thank you for that
l have been practicing the Hen and Chicken Pattern and l can almost do it without the paper l wrote out the pattern on
thank you again for the help
regards Heather G
Hi Heather
thank you for that
l have been practicing the Hen and Chicken Pattern and l can almost do it without the paper l wrote out the pattern on
thank you again for the help
regards Heather G
Hi Heather
thank you for that
l have been practicing the Hen and Chicken Pattern and l can almost do it without the paper l wrote out the pattern on
regards Heather G
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This website is a gem! I pretty much learn to make double stitches and then tried to reproduce simple patterns. I know want to teach a friend but didn’t know the “science” behind this lovely craft. And just love this site. Thank you! The explanations are smart yet easy to follow!
Help,
I am having difficulty sorting out tatting diagrams as I am left handed. The written word is great, but looking at a picture is a nightmare. I am so enjoying tatting as having done crochet for many years and tatting has now taken over big time. Is there a simple way of looking at a pattern through left handed eyes!!
Lesley
Leslie, you can try transforming a diagrammed pattern into the written word. Either way, patterns almost always proceed in a clockwise direction. Whether you’re right or left-handed, you will still go the same direction because that is the way that the stitches curl.
First, thank you so much for making this site I never would have been able to start tatting without it. I a. Alway referencing back to it and it is the best site I have had the pleasure to come across so far.
Lately I have been coming across a lot of patterns that look like the ones found here: http://free-tatting.com/?p=27#more-27. And I am having a hard time trying to figure them out. How am I supposed to read them? Please help.
Also do you know of any major difference between shuttle and needle tatting? For some reason it seems that all the patterns I want to do are for needle tatting.
Sincerly,
A student with many questions
I am trying to make my way through the hens and chicks. BUT! After the third ring when I am supposed to join with the last picot of the first ring, it leaves the 3 picots of the third ring lopsided because it’s the bottom of the ring that is connected to the picot . The diagram looks like the the first picot of the 3rd ring connects to the last one of the first ring. I can’t figure out how to do that. HELP!
By the way, thanks for all the time and effort you have put into this project. I would never have ventured into tatting if I hadn’t stumbled onto your site. Thank you!
Julie
Thank you for your information. It’s very clear on how to read tatting patterns, except for one thing. If I have a diagram pattern and it doesn’t say ‘start here’, where should I start? I want to make a bookmark, but the top left ring doesn’t seem to be the best place. Thanks for your help.
Suzanne, I know what you mean regarding the lack of ‘start here’ on some diagrammatic patterns, I am self taught through this awesome site and plenty of practice and watching youtube, I didn’t find anything really to answer that question. I am the kind of person that if it doesn’t fit then make it, so, what i found that helped me (and I am not saying that it is the correct way) is to trace the printed or copied pattern with a pencil starting with a ring and see if it fits together that way, I found great success by doing this. Think of it like a maze that your would do, marking the first ring as A or 1 and so on. Look and see if the pattern repeats its self (not as much numbering to do) and make notes as to where it repeats then you won’t have a sheet full of numbers/letters that cover the actual pattern!! I am not great at tatting and still learning and still trying to figure out the reverse work and the turn of which Im told is the same thing till i read else where that the turn is to turn the work upside down and the reverse is turning the work like a page in a book…grrrr. But anyway this idea helps me greatly. If I am wrong, then please, someone tell me.
All the best
Avalon xx
Hi
I am reading to books that have the same instructions.
One is Crochet and Tatting Craft by Anna Valerie Edging Medallions and Insertions.
The obstructionist for making “The Tatted Loop”
“Make 12 double knots with one shuttle. Draw them together into half ring and tighten the thread: the first knot of the next scallop must be so close to the last knot of the proceeding scallop as to touch it”
This is also the first lesson in The Complete Encyclopedia of Needlework by Therese De Dillmont.
They don’t show these attached to a towel. I wonder what kind of knot they are using to tie this off?
Also have you ever tried needle tatting? Is there any difference in the basic stitches and process, compared to the shuttle?
Needle Tatting is a very different technique from shuttle tatting, and is much easier to learn. The result of both however is the same knot and you can do most patterns with either method.
Thankyou so much, I’ve come to the right place. Your instructions in reading pattern is easy and very helping me, a newbie falling for tatting 🙂
Loving your tutorials, by sheer fluke I happened to use variegated thread to follow along and cos it’s different colours I can easily see if I’ve done the flip wrong, thought I’d share as it may help another beginner
Hi, brilliant tutorials by the way the best one by far. i have learnt so much from the first two of your tutorials. ‘ from part 1 of reading patterns, i was practising reading the pattern and i was copying the motif your uploaded from the Tatting Designs with Instructions Book No Five” by Adeline Cordet. Now i tatt with a needle and i would like to learn how to put a bead in the centre of the ring, I am a visual learner so write ups alowne don’t help me. I just find tatting easier with the needle but i really would like to learn the shuttle but i am doing that slowly has the hand technique is obviously has a different but i am getting there. Do you have a tutorial for that.
I want to thank you for your wonderful videos and website. I have crocheted and knitted since childhood and thought I might add tatting to my skills. I am still fumbling a bit but feel confident that with your help and can do it.
Hello and Thank You very much for your wonderful tutorials.
I have always wanted to learn tatting and i find your articles very useful.
I have, however, always had this problem when i tried tatting. When i make a second ring after the first i am unable to fit two tightly. There is always a slag and no matter how tight i try to keep the first knot it somehow shows the thread in between the two rings. For example, i tried making the daisy above, but when i made the leaves, there is thread showing between the two. Can you suggest any way of holding or pulling the thread to keep the rings tightly fitted? Thank you much 🙂
Hi…Thanks for sharing this tutorial, it really helped me , though I must say I’m still having difficulty of the Reverse or Joining Picots… I have a question about the “Leave #” thread”, how do I do that?… Hope you share more easy and lovely tutorials….Thanks (Aggie)
I was recently given my great great grandmother’s tatting shuttle by my mother. Neither my mother, nor my grandmother ever learned how to tat. This left me curious and inspired by my great great grandmother (who has now been long deceased). Your instructions made it so simple and clear for me. I am on day two of my tatting journey and I am now working on a pattern! All thanks to you! You are a great teacher.
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Regarding ring D (bottom center ring) :
When the pattern reads “* 8 times”, does this mean 8 times total or 8 times in addition to the original starred phrase (in this case, *2 d. s., p.)?
Is there a difference between how these “*” directions would be written in a vintage book vs. how they would be written today? (i.e. 8 times = total vs. 8 times in addition to)
The written pattern doesn’t mention that the last picot (before the “4 d.s.”) is a joined one. Is that typical of vintage patterns?
Also, there seems to be a discrepancy between the chart and the finished piece:
There are 7 picots and 2 joins in the piece,
but 6 picots and 2 joins in the chart.
Caveat: I could be reading things all wrong, since I am a beginner! :o)
I have a question. I’m just learning and have been watching many tutorials and I’m not clear on something. Ok say the pattern is 3 – 3. So I do 3 ds and then a picot, do i close the picot with the second half of a ds. And also does that count as stitch number 1 on the next 3 or do you do 3ds in addition to the picot? Thanks for all your info, I’m really enjoying your page.
I love you site and am trying so hard to learn to tat well. I love the wine colored hens and chicks edging. What size tatting thread should I use, and could you please tell me what the color is so I can be sure what to buy.
Thanks so much for making such wonderful lessons.
This is wonderful! I’ve wanted to learn to tat for years. But, always ran into the issue of not being able to find clear answers to my questions. Tatting isn’t extremely popular and I don’t know anyone who does it. But, crocheting wasn’t popular when I first learned it and now everyone I know wants to learn. Knitting wasn’t popular when I first learned it and now so many people do it. Perhaps by the time I get good at tatting, it will be popular. And, we will have you and many others to thank for it.
I am working in the hens and chicken, I got the first ring made and then the small ring and worked on third ring at end of ring it says to join to last Pico of first ring does that mean to complete the 5d p 5d p 5d at this point I am to join the to the first picot of first ring and continue with 5d and close ring.
What I tried was making first three rings and then tried to join third ring to first, but it doesn’t work. Wish I could make a drawing to show what I am having trouble with.
Hi, I am Tharie from Indonesia. I am new in tatting. And I am so glad that I find this wonderful lesson 😉 I just want to know more about turn/reverse work when we tat by reading diagrams. How could we know if it is reverse or not reverse? Thanks in advanced 🙂
Hi, i am just starting a new pattern and i have only been Tatting for around 5 mths i need to no what does 4n x 3p i don’t no what n means, can you please help as this will be a Christmas gift.
Thankx
Odette
I’m having a hard time forming those spaces. How do you do that exactly? Someone please help!
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1-4th” does this mean 1/4 of an Inch? Just want to be sure. Thanks
What does Ch4+(3×110+4) mean?
Make a chain of four double stitches, and then do 110 stitches, a picot, and four stitches, and repeat that set four times.
Are you sure it was 110? That’s a lot of stitches in a row.
Hi
I just wanted to let you know you are a very good teacher.
I’ve started to learn tatting last week and I’m getting addicted. Your instructions are very clear and I’m really happy I learned how to read a pattern. The diagrammatic I had already figured out by myself but it was good to check.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
May the angels light your path.
Greetings from Brazil
How do I read this?: R. 4+2-1-sp-4
My cousin taught me to tat decades ago using a shuttle. I was never very good at it and all I could ever make was a spiral of knots with some picots. Not very useful so I didn’t really pursue it. I’ve since forgotten all I knew.
I taught myself to knit and crochet a few months ago, and then stumbled on THIS. I am SO glad to have found it. It’s kind of a mix of tatting and knitting. This is great. Thank you so much for sharing this with me. I have already bought a set of needles and will start tatting as soon as I get them and share all this with my cousin. I know she’ll be glad to hear about it.
Thank you again!
I must be missing something. In the pattern for the hen and chicks style edging, what does the “s.” stand for? Obviously, I am very new to this!
Thanks for your help.
I am new and therefore the issue is probably mine – but I have tried to make the daisy and the pattern just seems incomplete. I have the two rings and tail but no daisy.
Hi I Just started tatting
And now I am trying this hen and chckleyts pattern. It says TN, does that mean Turn?